Bangkok has dominated Thailand's urban hierarchy as well as its political, commercial and cultural life since the late 18th century. Although you can shop in air-conditioned comfort in its Western-style malls, the city is a long way from being tamed by commercial homogeneity.

Bangkok proper seethes on the east side of the Mae Nam Chao Phraya (Chao Phraya River), drawing rural Thai folk into its cluttered fold daily. The city is reportedly sinking at a rate of 5cm (2in) every year, but there's too much sànùk (a Thai sense of fun) going on for that to get anyone down.

When to go

While there's really no bad time to visit Thailand's capital, rain and extreme heat are less frequent between November and February. April is only recommended to those with portable air conditioners, while October brings the heaviest rains - these are probably the best times to be out of Thailand. The tourists flock to Bangkok in December and August, while the least crowded months tend to be May, June and September.